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Problem solved 
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Joined: Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:14 pm
Posts: 2126
Location: Mtn.Grove, Ontario
Post Problem solved
Not sure if anyone else ever ran into this or has a better solution, but here I have a sign with both routed portions & sandblasted areas. Because I have several of these in different sizes, I don't really want to put them back on the router & take a chance of not getting it in EXACTLY the right spot.
So, I'm putting sandmask over an "open" area (routed down about 1") & there's no way the mask will take the force on its own.
Solution ....... fill the area with something to keep the mask in place. Since I have cedar shavings, they were my choice, but anything that you can kinda pack in there will work just fine.
You can see the mask is still on on the bottom portion of the pocket.
It worked just fine on all of the signs.


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cedarfill.jpg
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Rodger
Tue May 10, 2011 8:26 am
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Joined: Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:14 pm
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Location: Mtn.Grove, Ontario
Post Re: Problem solved
A secondary issue ....
I've had trouble in the past laminating different substrates to HDU. I use internal steel structures for post mounts, but wall-mounts are another problem, in that they expand & contract differently & eventually something has to give. Here I've routed in an area about .135" deep to receive a piece of DiBond. (I've sprayed some paint on the DiBond so it can be seen).

The DiBond is not glued in place at all, & the sign will be glued together along the edges as well as in the circles, which were left at full height. This will allow the DiBond some room to move without affecting the Corafoam
Any fasteners will go through the DiBond
The photos are not in order ..... the 1st photo shows the "sandwich" being clamped with drywall screws as clamps in the circles. The screws are in the centre of the circles, so I'll know where NOT to put the structural fasteners.

Some leave the screws in there, but I always remove them & put in a .5" plug. As long as I don't try to hide the plugs, I'll be able to see where they are.

Edited for clarity......
I should have shown the DiBond separately from the Corafoam because its causing confusion.
The sign itself is actually 2 pieces of Corafoam sandwiched together with Urethane glue & the DiBond fits in a pocket on one of the pieces. The holes in the DiBond allow the Corafoam pieces to touch & thus be glued out in the centre of the sign. The DiBond is not glued, but it can only move slightly.
I've had issues with the bonding / lamination of different substrates more times than I care to remember, so hopefully this solves the incompatibility issue.


Attachments:
glueup.jpg
glueup.jpg [ 191.1 KiB | Viewed 2322 times ]
insert.jpg
insert.jpg [ 192.71 KiB | Viewed 2322 times ]

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Last edited by T.R.MacMunn on Tue May 24, 2011 6:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Mon May 23, 2011 12:52 pm
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Joined: Tue Dec 26, 2006 11:06 am
Posts: 1258
Location: Unity, Sask. Canada
Post Re: Problem solved
Hey Rodger, here is what I've done for hanging, on wall type signs. Now, have only done this for interior so far but can't see why it wouldn't work for exterior too, if say a bolt was used instead of a screw to set inside a Key hole setup....What I do is as you discribe, I counter sink dibond into the back in the aproperate place, glue( like gorilla glue) it and screw it into place then Key Hole it to accept what ever size screw or bolt that will be put in the wall. To kept it from lifting I use a L-bracket with the back half hidden behind the sign, then run screws through it into the sign.(this can only be done at the bottom or sides as you need to be able to lift the sign up to drop it into the key hole setup.And the bracket can be painted the same colour as the frame.) Anyway its worked really well for me and all is hidden....Lefty


Tue May 24, 2011 7:58 am
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Joined: Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:14 pm
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Location: Mtn.Grove, Ontario
Post Re: Problem solved
Ok, I know I keep pulling up old threads but this is the same sign, but renovated.
They switched from PharmaChoice to Pharmasave.
There were actually 2 signs on this job .
With the steel insert for the wall-mounted sign, I couldn't put it back on the CNC to cut a new pocket, so that piece of MDF leaning up against the wall in one pic was my template. I routed a pocket .5" deep & put in a new panel for the letters. I had to buy a "template" bit, with the bearing at the top, for the hand router. T'was some friggin messy .......... :mrgreen:
Everyone's happy ....... so far at least.
The drywall screws are my clamps.


Attachments:
pharmasave3.jpg
pharmasave3.jpg [ 244.48 KiB | Viewed 1842 times ]
pharmasave2.jpg
pharmasave2.jpg [ 250.01 KiB | Viewed 1842 times ]
pharmasave1.jpg
pharmasave1.jpg [ 232.4 KiB | Viewed 1842 times ]

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Rodger
Sat Jan 26, 2013 5:45 pm
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Joined: Tue Dec 26, 2006 11:06 am
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Location: Unity, Sask. Canada
Post Re: Problem solved
Hey Rodger, I do the same thing on my cedar golf course signs that they keep changing from time to time...I make a template then (hand Route out) the area that needs changing, cut a new cedar blank to fit this templated area glue it into place then carve, blast or paint in the new graphics or lettering...Saves making a whole new cedar sign.


Sat Jan 26, 2013 6:48 pm
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